Visiting Armenia for the first time for few days recently, I was very interested to compare the spirit, vibes of Armenia and Georgia. At the first glance, the most significant difference was the omipresent khachkars (cross-stones, carved memorial steal bearing a cross) decorating the monasteries, roads, cemetaries. Beautifully decorated, stone carved, marvellous craftsmanship used for centuries, hard and precise work and pieces of arts that remain as witnesses of the past and signs for the future.
A place to go to admire khachkars is definately the old cemetary of Noratus near Sevan lake, where you can find more than 800 pieces. As we are always fond of meeting the locals we could not resist to “guided tour” by one of the local grandmas selling the knitted socks displayed on the tombs. Few words of English /russian and such performance…..”Here man and woman, marriage, lavashi (bread), vino (wine), dance, comes Tatar (invader) , all dead…..” We have enjoyed greatly, she was leading us around for nearly half an hour, her comment repeated the same at least 10 times. Luckily we have not visited all 800 pieces:-) So had to buy some knitted caps in the colours of Armenian flag once leaving.
But an even more fascinating story of khachkars appeared when visiting the cave Areni, where the oldest shoe in the world was found, when my dad and I were returning to the car and saw that my sister and mom entered a souvenir shop which we normally tend to avoid. For some reason, we joined them inside a place with awesome energy full of handmade products and instruments. The walls there were filled with amazing artworks of kachkars and stone carverd decorations made by the Karen and Ruben brothers, whom we named “Khachkars brothers”. We had an amazing pleasure to meet Karen. He explained to us what the meaning and symbols are behind his works and khachkars in general, and me and my sister tried to carve armenien letters E and S in the limestone with his help.
How the story of “Khackar brothers” started?
Karen described his bother has self-taught himself in this making of kahkars for two years as simply believed he was there to devote his time and talent to this beautiful art. So Karen tried it too and he fell in love with kchakhars as well. One of their first work together was renovation of some khachkar decorations at Noravank monastery (amazing monastery near Areni, with breathtaking views on the surrending mountains). Now they have their little business of khachkars decorations, local knitt dolls, wood carvings and paintings.
There was one unfinished piece displaying Jesus in a shallow “hole” , surrounded by tiny faces of apostoles carved in amazing details with symbols of eternity, peace and the universe. Breath taking. The sides however, were not finished yet and Karen said “it was because he had to let the thought to sit to get some ideas how to finish”, and started working on another wonderful piece until he knew exacty what belonged there. He had the kind of energy you feel from people with creative minds, but a calm and clear mindset as well.
I knew that moment this is a story to share with you and I dare to provide contact of Karen and Ruben here, if you plan to go and support their business by ordering a piece you would love.
